Double Farmhouse Bathroom Sink | Diy Concrete Sink & Countertop Ll Small Bathroom Renovation

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Diy Concrete Sink & Countertop Ll Small Bathroom Renovation


On this episode we’re building a white concrete double vanity sink that fits into a 42 square foot bathroom. Let’s get to it! [MUSIC] When I moved into this loft five years ago, I remodeled both the bathrooms and two concrete sinks for both of them. Unfortunately, all this was before. I started filming for Youtube, so I don’t have footage of any of it. So, my buddy. Steve came to me and said that his friend, Joel was remodeling a bathroom and willing to give me free reign to design a concrete sink for it. I jumped at the chance. We started this project back in August when the weather in Chicago was pretty much amazing, and thus we decided to work in an outdoor area adjacent to Steve’s shop. Steve has done a lot of foam work. So one of the primary objectives of this project was a skill exchange. Steve would teach me some foam carving skills to make the curvy sink mold, and I’d show him the ropes with concrete later on and you can cut foam. You’ll are by scouring and snapping it, but we decided it would be a bit easier to have at least one straight reference side, so we finished breaking down the foam using my Metabo HPT cordless table saw [Music] we’ll be gluing three sheets of 2 inch foam. You’ll are 250 together to give us a six inch foam block to carve the mold from with the foam block glued together. We started the carving process. We first through curved profiles for the top of the sink, using an MDF template to keep the curves roughly symmetrical. We then used a pull saw and a cut salt disc on an angle grinder to carve the foam down to the lines with the top profile cut. We drew the profile for the slope of the sink on the sides, making sure it came to a low point in the middle, so the sink would drain properly. [MUSIC] After removing most the material with the angle grinder, we used a wire brush to even out the curves, followed by a hundred and twenty grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface of the phone [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music]. Since I’d never done it before I was a little apprehensive about Freehand carving the phone, but it actually turned out to be pretty simple. The thing I found was he was just taking it slow and stopping frequently to smooth things out with the wire brush and sanding pads so you could visually assess the curve and symmetry and then repeat and adjust as necessary until you gradually get to the final shape. Were back in my shop quickly to finish off the foam form to do that. We’re just going to use some joint compound and this is the same stuff you use on drywall. We’re gonna wipe on a few layers of that sand it off until we get a nice, smooth shape that we want. [MUSIC] [Applause] then we can come back with Epoxy and seal it so that we can pour concrete over it [Music] [Applause] at this point, I had a number of things. Come up, so we hit the pause button for about four months. Let’s fast forward now to December when I finally got around to making the melamine form and at this point, working outside was certainly no longer an option [Applause] [Music] So the melamine is all cut. And I want to show you quickly. The concept for this design. The idea here is to make it look like a massive block of concrete with a sink cut away into it. When, in fact, it’s gonna be hollow, and then it’s gonna be a difference between say, you know, a 450 pound structure and a hundred pound structure and also save a lot of money in concrete, so the idea is that two of the sides are going to be visible and both those sides are going to be an 8 inch apron all the way around and then these sides are actually only going to be 3/4 of an inch and that’s. The beauty of using glass fiber reinforced concrete at 3/4 of an inch thick, the counter and sink would be plenty strong in only weigh about a hundred pounds so it can be maneuvered by one person if necessary. I realized I just put this back to you. I just put this together backwards. All right, gonna redo it. Fortunately, because of my final layout, check, it was a quick fix to reverse the form. I only had to swap two sides. No big deal, just going to screw it in to well. Be back on track. I used hot glue to secure the foam to the melamine And with that in place, it’s time for another episode of Kult talk. Which is the same as every episode of Kult. Talk, I apply a Blair paste wax to the molding later on generous layer, 100% silicone corundum, it will find it ball – overall, the caulk line’s, metal, fun, – ball -. It pushes excess caulk to the sides leaves a clean line over the seam. Let’s pause coked-up for a second because I need to explain the drain hole, so we need to do a knock out in the form for the drain and I just found an old pill bottle. That was almost exactly the right dimensions. I just needed to wrap it a few times and some penny take. Were gonna glue that right to the top there, and that will make the hole that we can put the sink through and now back to color top and the layer paste wax makes it easy to peel the excess caulk away when secure is leaving a perfect coke line. And that’s it for this episode of Kult. Talk I learned from my concrete explosion incident in my beam bench and screwed down. Some 2×4 supports on the tall sides. And then I Dexter fied everything and was ready for the pool for this project. I’m using fish stone. Standard GF. RC mix with the addition of white pigment to make it ultra white. I’ll be spraying a thin Beauty coat to get a nice, clean surface right out of the form and hand packing multiple backer coats, the beauty or face coat is mixed to a pancake batter consistency, which allows it to be sprayed with a hopper gun. This is basically the same as a drywall hopper, except it’s been modified with a 45-degree connector between the gun and the hopper. So that you can point the gun at horizontal surfaces without spilling the concrete from the hopper. [MUSIC] After spraying a thin even layer, we came back and brushed the entire surface with chip brushes. This helps to remove any air bubbles that might have been trapped in the spray process. I waited until the face coat was firm but still wet and mixed up the backer coat, which is the same GF. RC mix as the face coat except that it has the glass fibers added to it. I use the bit less water in the back coat so that the mix had a play-doh like consistency, which is ideal for hand packing in my past videos. I haven’t talked much about why you should select different types of mixes for different projects. So let’s go into that a bit here. The main reason I chose the GF. RC mix for this project is that it can be mixed to a playdough like consistency that has very low slump, which makes it ideal for hand, packing larger vertical surfaces and situations where a back form would be difficult to construct in this case with the proximity of the sink to the 8 inch vertical walls. I didn’t see any good way to support a back form at the corner, where the 2 8-inch walls meet thus hand packing. The GRC was the logical choice. I also came back after the first layer with some a hourglass script, which I rubbed into the back coat. The air scrim adds strength and further reduces slumping on the vertical surfaces. [MUSIC] After the last coat, I cover the concrete with the plastic tarp, this holds moisture in so the concrete cures more slowly and results in an even stronger final piece after about 10 hours when the concrete was firm but still relatively weak. I came back to level the edges. You can wait longer. But the heart of the concrete gets the harder it is to cut and grind. I started by using a diamond cutting wheel on my angle grinder to remove the bulk of the overflow concrete. I then came back with 80 to 150 sanding pads to sand, the bottom edge of the sink, perfectly straight and level using the top of the melamine form as a guide. After 24 hours, it was time to de mold and reveal the sink or as I call it concrete Christmas as I removed the form. I used diamond hand sanding pads to knock down the sharp edges. Removing the melamine base was a bit tricky. A vacuum seal had formed between the sink, mold and concrete, and there wasn’t a good way to get a grip on the melamine to pull it on. I ended up having to drill through the melamine base into the foam sink mold. Pull out some of the foam so that I could get enough leverage on the melamine to pull it off. After that, it was fairly easy to remove the rest of the foam form. And when I did, I was pretty happy with what I saw. There was some face coat tearaway on the bottom of the verticals, which were at the top of the form during casting watching the video back. I noticed that I was hand packing the tops of the walls. First, then working my way towards the bottom. In retrospect, this might have caused the tear out not a big deal, though. I just mixed up a slurry coat Using the same GF, RC mix and white pigment and patched up the voice. There are also a few voids in the sink itself. I think because the epoxy was just so smooth that the face coat didn’t stick as well to it. So I filled in those with the slurry to I let the slurry coat cure overnight and then sand it up to 400 grit [Music]. I then came back and applied an acrylic sealer to the sink after the sealer dried. I used a microfiber pad on my sander to buff in fish stones, concrete countertop wax and with that the sink was ready for installation at Joel’s. Okay, so I’m going to show you a little hack here that we’re using because I made a mistake. I should have put some concrete here to make a flat level surface across the drain so that we had something to put the flange and the underside of sake against I didn’t so what we’ve done is just make a moat with some plumbers putty and poured a little epoxy in there to create a flat surface across the drain hole, So I got to get this place cleaned up for the beauty shots, and I’m going to use the best cleaning products that I know of from this video. Sponsor Spray Way Spray Way is a US. Company that’s been around since 1947 They offer a complete line of consumer and commercial spray cleaner products and they’re available at your local big box store, so picks them up next time. You’re making a supply run their famous glass. Cleaner is the choice of professionals everywhere and is the perfect choice for cleaning the mirror in this bathroom. The granite and stone cleaner is also great for cleaning and polishing concrete surfaces like this sink. Their all-purpose cleaner is good for everything else in the bathroom. Since it eliminates 99.9% of virus and bacteria spray, whey is available at most of your local retailers Or you can get 15% off now when you order online via the link below and use the code. Modesto design, thanks spray way for supporting this channel, And now let’s get in there and check out this bathroom. [MUSIC] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] were done here and I am super happy. How this whole thing came out if you dug it to make sure to subscribe a bell and smash that like button a couple other details. You got the in wall faucets here and I didn’t go into those, but I will be doing more bathroom renovations this year, and I’ll probably do some stuff on that. We did a quick, just trim here underneath it. Joel is gonna come back and finish those later. Obviously there’s still a little bit more work to do in the bathroom, but overall. I think it’s all coming together, really. Well, okay, couple, quick things one. If you dig this bathroom, that’s around me here. I’m moving soon Got a couple more bathroom renovations, full top to bottom concrete sinks. Those are in the works, so stay tuned second for those of you. That have already supported me over on Patreon. Thank you, thank you, thank you. It means so much to me for those of you. That have not supported me yet, but would like to. There’s a link to the patreon in the description below no pressure, of course, and I am appreciative to all of you out there, regardless, just great being along and watching. That’s it for this time and Ill. See you next time.